My pool water is cloudy and I can’t clear it up. What could be causing this?

Check to make sure the sanitizer in the pool is in proper range. If it is not, raise the level.

If not already run your filter 24/7, and only clean your filter when the pressure is high or when the flow on your return is low.

If this is not working bring a water test into Swim Rite Pools that way we know if it is a chemical imbalance or other things hindering the chlorine from working.

Should I use a water clarifier in my pool?

A clarifier is designed as an aid to the efficient operation of the filter by coagulating most materials, which cause cloudy and hazy water, into larger particles that are removed by the filter. Because the presence of these materials increases the disinfectant demand, the use of a water clarifier decreases pool maintenance costs.

Why is filtration important to the quality of swimming pool water?

Filtration is the mechanical system for removing visible matter from the water. The filter medium is designed to remove hair, dirt, minute skin flakes, metal or calcium precipitates and other visible debris that would otherwise cause the water to be hazy and cloudy.

How do I know when it’s time to clean my pool filter?

Normal, periodic rinsing or backwashing will remove most of the dirt from a basically clean filter. However, over a period of time, grease, oils and scale can attack and build up on the elements. When this occurs, you will see build up on the removable elements, short filter runs, reduced circulation.

What does “Vacuum to Waste” mean?

When you “Vacuum to Waste” you are pumping the debris you vacuum out of the pool and sending the water to the waste line, and not through the pool filter. This method removes a large amount of water from the pool in a short time so be sure the pool is full before you begin. This method is used for large amounts of debris and dirt. This method will only work for circulation systems that use a 6-position filter valve. If you have an older “Push-Pull” style filter valve you must vacuum through the pool filter. Be sure to monitor the location where the waste line is connected to the sewer system in your home, just in case the sewer line cannot handle the large amount of water and overflows.

I added algaecide to my pool, but the algae didn’t go away. What did I do wrong?

Algaecide is a prevenitive it does not kill algae the only way to kill algae is to shock the pool. Keeping the chlorine 4ppm or higher will kill the algae.

In addition to properly dosing your water, it is also recommended that the algaecide be added in the morning on a bright sunny day for best results.

Why do I need to shock my pool?

Pool water composition always includes some undesirable elements that actually contaminate the water and reduce the efficiency of the disinfectant or sanitizer. Material such as hair spray, suntan oil, cosmetics, perspiration and other organic material react to combine with the chlorine in the water to form “combined chlorine”.

Once “combined chlorine” forms, it acts as a very poor disinfectant, contributing to eye and skin irritations and the forming of unpleasant chlorine odor. Pools with this problem are often inaccurately accused of having too much chlorine.

Routine shock treatment is necessary to destroy combined chlorine compounds and restore the chlorine sanitizer to “free chlorine” efficiency. A pool can be shock treated by adding large doses of chlorine, commonly referred to as superchlorination, or by adding a non-chlorine shock such as GLB OXY-BRITE or Applied Biochemists SHOCKTRINE.

My pool has a very strong chlorine odor. Is there too much chlorine in my pool?

No, you don’t have enough “free chlorine” in your pool. Most pools contain both good chlorine and bad chlorine. The good chlorine is called free chlorine and is capable of killing germs. Bad chlorine, on the other hand, is called “combined chlorine” and is a poor germ killer.

Too much combined chlorine in your pool causes the strong chlorine odor. When the combined chlorine level reaches 0.2 ppm or more, it is time to shock your water. Shocking will eliminate the odor.

When I shock my pool, should I use chlorine or non-chlorine shock?

Both treatments accomplish the goal of destroying and removing bather waste and preventing the formation of combined chlorine.

Superchlorination, the addition of large amounts of chlorine, has some drawbacks. Because it requires large amounts of chlorine, it can damage liners and swimsuits and upset water balance. Additionally, it is difficult to determine proper dosage amounts and it requires swimmers to wait until the level of chlorine drops, often a day or more, until they can swim.

Non-chlorine shock, on the other hand, does not require excessive chlorine use and allows swimming almost immediately after application, does not harm liners, has easily determined dosage rates and does not upset water balance.

Do I need to add a sanitizer regularly?

Yes, an E.P.A. registered sanitizer should be added and maintained at proper levels at all times. Non-chlorine shock treatments contain no chlorine, therefore you must make regular additions of sanitizer to ensure that you are disinfecting the water.

I have an outdoor pool and I am told that the chlorine needs to be stabilized. Why?

The chlorine in a pool can be broken down by ultra violet light from the sun. If stabilizer, is not present, the chlorine level will dissipate very rapidly over the course of the day.

It is recommended that you add stabilizer to the pool to prevent this chlorine break down. The stabilizer level should be between 30-50 ppm to properly stabilize the pool. The use of a stabilizer will reduce your overall chlorine consumption and save you money. However, many of the products available at your retailer are stabilized chlorine.

What causes the “ring” around my pool’s line?

The accumulation of oils and dirt from bathers is the biggest cause. Using a tile cleaner specifically designed for pools can clean it off. Household cleaners do not contain the needed balance of both oil/grease cutters and scale dissolving ingredients. In fact, these cleaners can actually dull a tile line due to abrasives or cause unsightly foaming. Even worse, they may react with the sanitizer, such as chlorine, in your pool.

Another helpful hint would be to regularly use an enzyme based product in your pool. These biodegradable products will control grease and oil before it builds up.

Following chemical treatment, how long do I have to wait before I use my pool?

Adding powered chemical to the pool such as, Calcium Hardness, pH up and down, Alkalinity Increaser. You should wait about 4 hours before swimming. For liquid chemicals and chlorine such as liquid chlorine, powered chlorine shock and muratic acid you should wait 8 hours or overnight.

What are enzyme based cleaners and how do they work?

Basically, enzymes are substances that speed up chemical reactions. In the case of enzyme based cleaners, they are designed to speed up the process of breaking down oils, proteins, etc. that may be in your pool. Enzymes will break up very large particles into smaller ones that can be handled more easily by your sanitizer. Regular use of an enzyme will help reduce scum line buildup and free up your sanitizer for the work it was intended to do-sanitizing

Pool Water Questions

Issues with water color. 

  1. Check to make sure the sanitizer (chlorine) in the pool is in proper range. If it is not, raise the level.
  2. If not already, run your filter 24/7 and only clean your filter when the pressure is high or when the flow on your return is low.
  3. If this is not working bring a water test into Swim Rite Pools that way we know if it is a chemical imbalance or other things hindering the sanitizer (chlorine) from working.

Algaecide is a preventive it does not kill algae. The only way to kill algae is to shock the pool. Keeping the chlorine 4ppm or higher will kill the algae.

In addition to properly dosing your water, it is also recommended that the algaecide be added in the morning on a bright sunny day for best results.

  1. Shock the pool! Shock the pool based on your gallonage 1 bag of powered shock per 10,000 gallons (based on our powered shock).
  2. Check and maintain a chlorine level after shocking check the next day to make sure you are holding a chlorine level. If you are not holding a chlorine level take in a water test to Swim Rite to make sure it is not a chemical imbalance.
  3. Add algaecide we recommend using the Swimtrine Plus algaecide it is concentrated so you only use a few ounces based on the gallonage of your pool. (The algaecide will not kill algae it is a preventive).

Cloudy water is the first sign of live algae. To prevent your water from going green shock the pool. The next step is making sure your filter system is running 24/7 that way as the algae is dying it is getting filtered out of the pool water.

If your water was green and then it goes to a cloudy blue, check your chlorine level to make sure you are still killing any live algae. Then make sure you are running your filter 24/7 that way it is filtering out the dead algae. If you have a sand filter you may want to look into getting a filter aid to assist your filter in cleaning up the dead algae.

chlorine based questions

Pool water composition always includes some undesirable elements that actually contaminate the water and reduce the efficiency of the disinfectant or sanitizer. Material such as hair spray, suntan oil, cosmetics, perspiration and other organic material react to combine with the chlorine in the water to form “combined chlorine”.

Once “combined chlorine” forms, it acts as a very poor disinfectant, contributing to eye and skin irritations and the forming of unpleasant chlorine odor. Pools with this problem are often inaccurately accused of having too much chlorine.

Routine shock treatment is necessary to destroy combined chlorine compounds and restore the chlorine sanitizer to “free chlorine” efficiency. A pool can be shock treated by adding large doses of chlorine, commonly referred to as superchlorination, or by adding a non-chlorine shock such as GLB OXY-BRITE or Applied Biochemists SHOCKTRINE.

No, you don’t have enough “free chlorine” in your pool. Most pools contain both good chlorine and bad chlorine. The good chlorine is called free chlorine and is capable of killing germs. Bad chlorine, on the other hand, is called “combined chlorine” and is a poor germ killer.

Too much combined chlorine in your pool causes the strong chlorine odor. When the combined chlorine level reaches 0.2 ppm or more, it is time to shock your water. Shocking will eliminate the odor.

It depends on if you have chlorine in the water, both treatments accomplish the goal of destroying and removing bather waste and preventing the formation of combined chlorine.

Superchlorination, the addition of large amounts of chlorine, should be used when the free chlorine and combined chlorine are both low.

Non-chlorine shock, should be used when you have an okay total chlorine but the free chlorine and total chlorine separate creating combine chlorine. This leads to you shocking the pool but without raising the chlorine to high.

Yes, an E.P.A. registered sanitizer should be added and maintained at proper levels at all times. Your chlorine level should be 1-4 ppm. 

The chlorine in a pool can be broken down by ultra violet light from the sun. If stabilizer, is not present, the chlorine level will dissipate very rapidly over the course of the day.

It is recommended that you add stabilizer to the pool to prevent this chlorine break down. The stabilizer level should be between 30-50 ppm to properly stabilize the pool. The use of a stabilizer will reduce your overall chlorine consumption and save you money. Most chlorine products contain stabilizer.

  1. Shock it and check the next day.
  2. If you are not holding a chlorine level the next day plan on shocking it again.
  3. Bring in a water test to Swim Rite we can check to see if something is eating your chlorine like Phosphates or Nitrates, and we can show you how to treat it from there.

Chemical water balance

Adding powered chemical to the pool such as, Calcium Hardness, pH up and down, Alkalinity Increaser, you should wait about 4 hours before swimming. For liquid chemicals and chlorine such as liquid chlorine, powered chlorine shock and Muratic acid you should wait 8 hours or overnight.

Stabilizer or Cyanuric acid is basically sunscreen for chlorine. Stabilizer helps chlorine stay in the pool. Stabilizers ideal levels are 20-50 ppm. Once you get over 50ppm chlorine starts to become more ineffective. It takes more chlorine to sanitize the pool leading to the chlorine becoming infective at disinfecting the pool. The only way to bring the stabilizer level down is by partially draining the pool. There are ways to avoid your stabilizer getting to high like: switching to a non-stabilized tablet and testing water at swim rite frequently to make sure it is staying in an ideal range.

You should check your pool water on your own once a week with either test strips or the droplets. You should have a professional test your water once a month to make sure everything is staying in order. Or if you do not feel comfortable testing on your own you can bring it into Swim Rite once a week. 

Pool chemistry is important to the life span of the pool and the equipment. Improper water balance can lead to premature death for the pool liner, pump, filter, heater and the pool itself. So balanced chemistry is very important to your pool. Take a pool sample into Swim Rite for a water test its free!

Improper water balance can lead to eye irritation usually involving the imbalance of the pH and alkalinity.

  1. Shock it and check the next day.
  2. If you are not holding a chlorine level the next day plan on shocking it again.
  3. Bring in a water test to Swim Rite we can check to see if something is eating your chlorine like Phosphates or Nitrates, and we can show you how to treat it from there.

You should use a pool clarifier when you have cloudy water it makes the small particles in your water increase in sizes that way the filter can filter the particles out.

Yes, there are other alternatives there is a completely chlorine free system called Baquacil. The Baquacil Sanitizer they use is an ingredient they use in contact solution. Baquacil is derived from the same basic chemistry found in a number of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. The Baquacil Oxidizer contains 27% hydrogen peroxide. Baquacil eliminates some of the problems associated with chlorine, such as bleaching of hair, fabrics or vinyl liners.  And you’ll be far less likely to experience skin or eye irritation. For more information on Baquacil and how to switch a chlorine pool to Baquacil, stop into Swim Rite Pools.

No, the salt you put into the pool actually changes form and becomes chlorine. Salt itself is not a sanitizer, and contrary to popular belief a salt pool is NOT a chlorine free pool. The salt generator uses electrolysis to break down the salt in the water. Then the resulting chemical reaction produces hypochlorous acid and sodium hypochlorite, aka chlorine, which acts as a sanitizer for the pool.

Filtration is the mechanical system for removing visible matter from the water. The filter medium is designed to remove hair, dirt, skin flakes, metal or calcium precipitates and other visible debris that would otherwise cause the water to be hazy and cloudy.

The accumulation of oils and dirt from bathers is the biggest cause. To get rid of the ring use a surface cleaner we recommend Baquacil surface cleaner.